Power Supply Calculator
Work out the PSU wattage a PC build needs, with a breakdown of where the power goes.
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What is this?
A Power Supply Calculator works out what PSU wattage a PC build needs. It adds up what each component draws under load, adds headroom for transient spikes and ageing, and rounds up to a wattage that is actually sold. The CPU and graphics card typically account for 80 to 90 percent of the total.
How to Use the Power Supply Calculator
A PSU calculator works out what power supply a PC build needs. It adds up what each component draws under load, adds headroom, and rounds up to a wattage you can actually buy.
Two components dominate: the processor and the graphics card usually account for 80 to 90 percent of the total. Everything else - memory, drives, fans, the motherboard itself - adds up to less than a single mid-range graphics card.
Headroom of 20 to 30 percent is the usual advice. It covers transient spikes, the way capacitors age, and the fact that a power supply runs most efficiently at around half load rather than flat out.
1. Pick Your CPU Class
Choose the class that matches your processor and the rated wattage fills in. If you know the exact figure for your chip, type it over the top - the published number for your part always beats a class estimate.
2. Pick Your Graphics Card
Same idea. Choose integrated graphics if you have no separate card. Set the quantity if you run more than one, and tick overclocked if applicable.
3. Add the Rest
Motherboard size, memory sticks, NVMe and SATA SSDs, hard drives, fans, optical drives, USB fast-charging ports and liquid cooling. Each has a typical per-unit figure shown beside it.
4. Set Headroom
25 percent is a sensible default. Lower it if you want the smallest unit that works; raise it if you plan to upgrade or want the PSU running cooler and quieter.
5. Read the Recommendation
You get the recommended wattage, the load your build puts on it, a breakdown of where the power goes, and how much the machine draws from the wall at your chosen efficiency rating.
Key Formulas Used in the Calculator
Total Draw
Total=CPU+(GPU×Cards)+Motherboard+Memory+Drives+Fans+Cooling
Every component's rated power added together. This is what the machine pulls under a realistic load, not idle.
With Headroom
Required=Total×(1+100Headroom)
At 25 percent, a 400 W build needs 500 W. The margin covers transient spikes, ageing, and keeps the PSU in its efficient range.
Overclocking Allowance
CPU+30%GPU+15%
Overclocking raises power draw faster than it raises performance. These are rough allowances - a heavily tuned chip can exceed them considerably.
Draw at the Wall
Wall Watts=EfficiencyDelivered Watts
An 88 percent efficient supply delivering 445 W pulls 506 W from the socket and sheds the other 61 W as heat. Efficiency changes your electricity bill, not what your components need.
Benefits
Every component wattage is editable, so the estimate can be made exact
Rounds up to sizes power supplies are actually sold in
Shows the load percentage, not just the wattage
Breaks down where the power goes and what share each part takes
Warns when the recommended unit would be running above 80 percent
Warns when a build exceeds what one consumer PSU can deliver
Converts to draw at the wall so you can see the running cost
When & Where to Use
Sizing a power supply for a new build
Checking whether an existing PSU can take a graphics card upgrade
Seeing how much headroom a build has left
Comparing the wall draw of different efficiency ratings
Working out the cost of running a machine
Deciding whether a smaller unit would be adequate
Sizing for a multi-GPU or workstation build
Who Should Use This Calculator
The Power Supply Calculator is for anyone building or upgrading a PC - first-time builders sizing a unit, upgraders checking whether an existing supply is sufficient, and system builders specifying parts.
Tips to Get the Best Deal
The CPU and graphics card are almost the whole total - the rest barely moves it
Use the published figure for your exact parts rather than the class estimate
A PSU is most efficient around half load, which is why headroom helps twice
Modern graphics cards draw brief spikes well above their rated figure
Buying far more wattage than you need wastes money without helping
Check the connectors as well as the wattage - newer cards need 12V-2x6
A higher efficiency rating pays for itself only on a machine that runs a lot
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
How do I work out what PSU wattage I need?
Add up the rated power of every component, add 20 to 30 percent headroom, then round up to a size that is actually sold. A 400 W build with 25 percent headroom needs 500 W.
Why add headroom at all?
Three reasons: modern graphics cards draw brief transient spikes well above their rated figure, capacitors lose capacity as they age, and a power supply runs most efficiently around half load rather than at its limit.
Does a bigger PSU use more electricity?
No. A power supply delivers what the components ask for. A 1000 W unit powering a 400 W machine draws the same from the wall as a 600 W unit doing the same job, give or take efficiency differences at that load.
What does 80 PLUS Gold actually mean?
It describes efficiency - how much comes out compared to what goes in. A Gold unit is about 88 percent efficient, so delivering 445 W it draws about 506 W from the wall and loses the rest as heat. It affects your bill, not your component requirements.
How much power does a graphics card use?
It ranges from about 75 W for a slot-powered entry card to 575 W for a current flagship. It is usually the single largest draw in a gaming PC, often more than everything else combined.
Should I worry about running at 80 percent load?
It will work, but the unit runs hotter and louder, sits outside its most efficient range, and leaves nothing for an upgrade. Around 50 to 70 percent is a comfortable place to be.
Do the class estimates match my exact CPU or card?
Only approximately. The classes give a sensible starting figure, but every wattage field is editable - look up the rated power for your exact parts and type it in for an accurate result.
Pro Tips
The CPU and graphics card are almost the whole total.
Use the published figure for your exact parts rather than the class estimate.
A PSU is most efficient around half load, so headroom helps twice.
Modern graphics cards draw brief spikes well above their rated figure.
A bigger PSU does not use more electricity - it delivers what is asked of it.
Check connectors as well as wattage; newer cards need 12V-2x6.